Food

Asian Rice Salads Evolve in American Restaurants

Kate Leahy

The rice salad that Iing Chatterjee knew while growing up in Bangkok was a bright, herbal rendition made with finely sliced vegetables—a combination of whatever greens were left over from the day before. She was completely unfamiliar with nam khao tod, a salad of deep-fried rice balls broken up and tossed with seasonings that hails from Laos. But to her husband, Kasem...