The Return to Dining Tastes Like Butter at These New French Restaurants

Chandra Ram

The lists of restaurant openings these days have a certain … je ne sais quoi. Daniel Boulud kicked off New York City’s post-vax social life by opening the fine-dining Le Pavillon last spring, beckoning diners weary of takeout with Champagne, golden osetra caviar, and buckwheat-crusted sea scallops. At Boston’s Café Sauvage, roast chicken with jollof rice and Nutella crêpes help tell the story of the...