An Octopus Salad and Other Lessons from Daniel Boulud

Last August, I rolled into Philadelphia on Amtrak and went straight to lunch at a.kitchen. There would be plenty of new-to-me restaurants to check out over the next few days, but first I wanted to catch up with Chef Eli Collins, who has run a.kitchen since 2017, and eat food I knew I’d love: a Comté-smothered gougère, chicken liver mousse with summer peaches and preserved garlic scapes,...