Resilience Alone isn’t Enough to Save Restaurants

Chicago, Illinois

The notion that chefs are tougher than most people goes back to the first time a cook cut himself and then continued to work a full shift. It’s been a point of pride for most cooks I know, the focus of books by Anthony Bourdain and Michael Ruhlman, and celebrated in popular culture.

But that reputation might be hurting restaurants and cooks now. When I talk to people...