Why Fish Somm Is a Dream Job for These Two Hawaiian Spearfishermen

Ryan Hauser stopped our Zoom interview mid-call to show me the blue water outside his Waikiki high-rise. “I really want to go fishing right now, there’s not a lick of wind,” he said, explaining that spearfishermen and divers like him can only catch the coveted deep bottom fish on calm days like these. These include species like gindai, kalekale, and lehi that live in the deepest part of the water but can only be...