Chefs and Restaurants

Chefs Find a Way to Create Space for Grief and Loss in Their Restaurants

For the first time in her career, Kelly Fields doesn’t know what her day will hold. In pre-COVID times, the team at Willa Jean, her New Orleans restaurant, rocked 1,000-cover brunches. Now, with just 28 open seats in the dining room plus a few al fresco tables, they might feed 50. Fields’ muscle memory is in shock.

“There was so much fear in quarantine that I never thought about...