How This Barista Expresses Himself Through Coffee Omakase

Caroline Hatchett

Ryan Castelaz likes to test the bounds of just how far is too far. Last summer, guests to his “Growing Up”-themed coffee omakase drank “Infancy,” a combination of peach- and cinnamon-infused cold brew coffee, blueberry buckle milk, bourbon barrel-aged maple syrup, and floral bitters. Castelaz served the drink in plastic baby bottles whose nipples had been trimmed down to enable flow; he stuck a lemon-fennel lollipop through the nipple’s hole.

“You will never...