Pão de Queijo Meets Breakfast Bread Bowl at Houston’s Koffeteria

Koffeteria, in Houston’s developing EaDo neighborhood, was a return to home for Vanarin Kuch. The pastry chef had left his hometown to work in Chicago and New York, but in 2019 felt drawn back to Texas. “I wanted to do things that are important, and Houstonian at that,” says Kuch. “Koffeteria is my love letter back to [the city.]” 

Despite opening the shop just a...