Discover the Joys of Cooking with Broken and Ground Rice

Chandra Ram

It used to be that only long, perfect grains of rice were acceptable in American kitchens. But as dishes from the American South, West Africa and Southeast Asia taught chefs about the joys of cooking broken rice, what was once considered garbage is now a covetable specialty.

In the pre-Civil War South, slaves pounded Carolina Gold rice to polish it. They filtered out the grains that broke...