How Worcestershire Sauce Conjurs up Dark Magic

Chandra Ram

When did Worcestershire sauce become a natural sidekick to a steak dinner? The ubiquitous bottle filled with umami might feel too quotidian for a special meal, but it can’t be beat when splashed into a hot pan with butter and mushrooms.

But how did we get here? You might think the story of Worcestershire originates in England, but in fact it goes further east, to the state of Bengal, in India. Sauce folklore tells...